Shri Haridas Viharidas Desai,
Diwan of Junagadh

During his very first visit to Junagadh Swamiji had become a guest of Shri Haridas Viharidas Desai, the Diwan of Junagadh (whom Swamiji used to address as Diwanji Saheb). Diwanji Saheb was so much charmed with the company of Swamiji that every evening with all the State officials he used to meet Swamiji and converse with him until late at night.

Diwanji Saheb became so much attached to Swamiji that even after Swamiji had left Junagadh he continued to keep contact with him. Diwanji Saheb found in Swamiji a unique personality and teacher and Swamiji in turn loved and respected him as a son does his father, the difference in their age being 22 years. What a great respect and love Swamiji bore towards Diwanji Saheb is evident from the 13 inspiring and important letters of Swamiji addressed to him.

Swamiji wrote to Diwanji Saheb from Bombay on 22 August, 1892 "The world really is enriched by men, high souled, noble-minded and kind like you, 'the rest are only as axes, which cut at the tree of youth of their mothers' as the Sanskrit poem puts it."

He wrote from Khetri in May 1893, "Believe me that I love you and respect you like a father and that my gratitude towards you and your family is surely unbounded... my dear Diwanji Saheb, I am the same frolicious, mischievous but I assure you, innocent boy you found me at Junagadh and my love for your noble self is the same or increased a hundredfold because I have had a mental comparison between yourself and the Diwans of nearly all the States in Dakshin and the Lord be my witness how my tongue was fluent in your praise (although I know that my powers are quite inadequate to estimate your noble qualities) in every southern court.."

"A friend in need is a friend indeed". Like a true friend Swamiji helped Diwanji Saheb to overcome his problems, whenever needed. We have already seen how Swamiji drafted out a letter for him and helped him to keep up good relations with both - the Nawab of Junagadh as well as British Government. He continued to guide him in this regard. He wrote from Poona on 15th June, 1892, "Perhaps by this time every hitch has been removed from your way in Junagadh, at least I hope so". Again when he was in distress, Swamiji wrote to him from Bombay on 22nd May, 1893, a letter which will be ever inspiring to every good person :

"Often and often we see that the very best of men even are troubled and visited with tribulations in this world. It may be inexplicable but it is also the experience of my life that the heart and core of everything here is good, that whatever may be the surface of waves, deep down and underlying everything, there is an infinite basis of goodness and love and so long we do not reach that basis we are troubled but once reached that zone of calmness, let winds howl and tempest rage, the house which is built upon the rock of ages cannot shake. I thoroughly believe that a good, unselfish and holy man like you whose whole life has been devoted in doing good to others has already reached the basis of firmness which the Lord himself has styled as 'rest' upon Brahman in the Gita.

May the blows you have received draw thee closer and closer to that Being who is the only one to be loved here and hereafter so that you may realise him in everything past, present and future and find everything present or lost in Him and Him alone."

Similarly, when Swamiji was in trouble, while some vested interests in America raised all sorts of scandalous charges against his character and conduct, Diwanji Sabeb, as soon as he came to know about it, wrote on 26.6.1894 to Mr. G. W. Hale in staunch defence of his beloved Swamiji. This was a timely and important help Swamiji received from his dear Diwanji Saheb. Swamiji wrote to him in September 1894, "your kind note to G.W. Hale has been very gratifying as I owed them that much."

From the above we get a glimpse of the extra-ordinary personality of Diwanji Saheb.Extremely pious by nature and efficient in administration his whole life (1840-1895) was devoted to the good of the people. His administration of more than a decade in Junagadh was marked by the most important reforms in every department of the State. Apart from building 12,000 stairs up Mount Girnar (by collection of Rs. 3 lacs from the public through lottery), construction of a bridge connecting the approach road from Junagadh to Mount Girnar, a temple of Narsi Mehta and Damodar Kund (all at his own cost), his greatest work was the construction of a railway line joining the capital town Junagadh with Veraval, the principal port, and connecting both with the great railway system of India. In 1894 he was appointed by Her Majesty the Queen to be a member of Royal Opium Commission. For serving admirably on the Royal Commission Lord Brussey had proposed to the British Government the conferment of Knighthood on Diwanji Saheb; but in the meanwhile he suddenly, but peacefully, passed away after a brief illness on 17th June, 1895 in Nadiad his hometown. The whole town mourned his death and newspapers all over India and abroad lamented his death. The Amrit Bazar Patrika (Editorial) Calcutta, dated 30th June, 1895 remarked, "In him India has lost one of her best sons."29 'India', London (Editorial) September 1895 remarked", By the death of Mr. Haridas Viharidas, India has suffered a great and Iamentable loss. The people of India had no more unselfish, simple-minded and enlightened champion."

With Maharaja of Kutch

After spending a few days in Junagadh, Swamiji proceeded towards Kutch with a letter of introduction from Diwanji Saheb to his bosom friend Motichand Lalchand, Diwanji of Bhuj. Bhuj was the capital of Kutch, situated at the base of a fortified hill on the northern side of the Rann of Kutch. Swamiji stayed with the Diwanji of Bhuj who introduced him to the Maharaja and had long talks with him, both upon the industrial, agricultural and economic problems of the land. He impressed upon them the need for ameliorating the condition of the masses as he had a great faith in the ability of the rulers to do good to their subjects. If they could be taught about the ancient Indian ideals of civil government.

Maharaja of Kutch - Khengarji Bahadur was one of the most cultured, advanced and enlightened native rulers of India, who had the honour of an audience with Her Majesty during his visit to England (1887) who on this occasion Conferred upon him the title of Rao, the Knight Grand Commander of the Indian Empire. He took keenest interest in the subject of female education, got many standard English works translated into Gujarati and carried out considerable improvement in public works.

Being three years younger to Swamiji, he must have entered into intimate friendship with him. During Swamiji's visit to Prabhas he again met Swamiji and had long conversation with him. Maharaja was deeply impressed by Swamiji's magnetic personality and was astonished at his vast knowledge. He used to say : "Swamiji, as after reading may books the head becomes dazed, even so after hearing your discourses my brain becomes dizzy. How will you utilise this talent? You will never rest until you have done wonderful things!"

Swamiji afterwards went to Mandavi when Maharaja of Bhuj made all arrangement for his pilgrimage to various places in Kutch-Narayan Sarovar, Ashapura (Devi Temple) etc.

Later when Swamiji was again at Bhuj with his brother - disciple Swami Akhandananda, he told him, "The Raja is paying us too much attention and that may be an eyesore to many if we stay here long. Twenty five years ago a Bengali sannyasin named Ananda Ashrama came to Bhuj and helped much in the improvement of the State. But such reforms did not find favour in the eyes of the State officers. Ananda Ashrama became their eyesore. His enemies mixed poison with his food and killed him. We may have the same fate. Let us move off even tomorrow."

The call of Somnath

After returning from his first visit to Bhuj and resting for a few days at Junagadh, he was off again. This time to Veraval and Patan - Somnath. Sir Henry Elliot records that 10,000 populated villages were held by Somnath temple as an endowment and that 300 musicians were attached to it. There were also 300 barbers to shave the heads of the pilgrims. 32 Several times this temple was destroyed and several times rebuilt. Swamiji paused by this great ruin and pondered over the greatness that had been India's in the past. He realised that in India religious life forms the centre, the keynote of the whole music of national life. Later (in 1897) he was to address his countrymen, "Some of these old temples of Southern India and those like Somnath of Gujarat will teach you volumes of wisdom, will give you a keener insight into the history of the race than any amount of books."33 Today at the same spot stands the magnificent renovated temple of Somnath. How happy Swamiji would have been to see it ? Or who knows, perhaps he saw it in his mental vision or perhaps it is the fulfilment of his vision!

After seeing the ruins of Somnath temple, the Suraj Mandir, and the new temple of Shiva built by Rani Ahalyabai of Indore (just near Somnath temple) Swamiji bathed at the confluence of three rivers.

In Sudamapuri

After a brief stay at Veraval Swamiji returned to Junagadh and leaving it the third time, he came to Porbandar with a letter of introduction to the Administrator Shri Shankar Pandurang Pandit. After Swamiji had visited the ancient temple of Sudama, Shri Shankar Pandurang Pandit introduced him to the Maharaja who took an instant liking to him and urged him to dwell in the palace.

One evening while Swamiji was pacing on the parapeted roof of the palace, he suddenly saw his brother disciple Swami Trigunatitananda coming towards the palace with a group of sadhus. He felt a sudden thrill passing through his body. But he controlled himself and in an attempt to cast off the golden chain of attachment to his brother - disciple he assumed an attitude of indifference. Noticing this, Swami Trigunatitananda putting aside his joy, told that he had come not to disturb him but only to seek help from an unknown learned monk staying with the Maharaja for pilgrimage to Hingalaj Tirtha. At first Swamiji dismissed his appeal but later his heart softened and he helped him and his friends while urging him never to follow him again even if he had the slightest suspicion of where he was.

In the city of Shri Krishna

After a brief stay in Porbandar, Swamiji as a wandering monk reached Dwaraka, holy with innumerable memories and legends of Shri Krishna. But of its glories nothing remains at present. Now the ocean roars in tumult over the place where once the powerful Yadava lived and where once stood a great capital of which Shri Krishna was the reigning prince. Gazing all over the ocean, waves of agony rose in the mind of Swamiji at the thought that nothing but ruins remained of great India. He sat on the shore and yearned ardently to fathom the contents of the future. Then rising as from a dream he went to Sharada Math (a monastery founded by Adi Shankaracharya) where he was assigned a room. There in the silence of his cell, he saw a great light - the resplendent future of India.

From Dwaraka Swamiji went to Bet Dwaraka (Island Dwarka) Mandvi etc.

An interesting chase

On the eve of Swamiji's departure from Delhi, his brother - disciple Swami Akhandananda had told him "Even if you go the nether world, I shall hunt you out". The interesting story of that hunt throws light on the route of Swamiji. While chasing him Swami Akhandananda heard at Ahmedabad that Swamiji had gone to Wadhwan. At Wadhawan he heard that he had gone to Junagadh; at Junagadh he learnt that Swamiji had left for Dwaraka via Porbandar; at Dwaraka that he had left for Bet Dwaraka; at Bet Dwaraka that at the invitation of the Maharaja of Kutch he had gone to Mandavi; at Mandavi that accompanied by a party of body guards he had gone to Narayan Sarovar, which was eighty miles away.

Swami Akhandananda was warned at Mandavi that the road to Narayan Sarovar was infested with dacoits. But heedless of danger he sped on. On the way he was beaten and robbed by dacoits. At Narayan Sarovar he learnt that the journey to the place, which might have cost him his life, had been fruitless for he was told that Swamiji had left for Mandavi via Ashapura. The road lay through desert wastes and was also infested with dacoits and it meant a journey for a hundred miles, yet he heroically marched on in spite of having fallen sick.

Fate at long last looked with a kindly eye at Swami Akhandananda. For after reaching Mandavi this time, he learnt that Swamiji was indeed there staying in the house of a merchant belonging to the Bhatia community. On reaching Bhatia's house Swami Akhandananda was overwhelmed with the joy to meet Swamiji at last. He was surprised to see a change in Swamiji's face which had a sublime radiance. Swamiji was also astonished and no less glad to meet his beloved brother disciple but when he heard the story of his chasing him, he got worried that his brother - disciple would not leave him alone as he had come all the way at the risk of his life. He told Swami Akhandananda, "Look I have become a spoiled man, you leave me." Swami Akhandananda replied, "what would it matter to me even if you had lost your character ? I love you, and that is not in any way affected by your good or bad character. But I do not wish to be in your way. I had a longing to see you, and now I am satisfied. Now you can go alone." Swamiji was happy to hear this and next day left for Bhuj, which Swami Akhandananda reached a day later. Both of them then went back to Mandavi and halted for a fortnight. There Swamiji made many friends. From there Swamiji went to Porbandar. Swami Akhandananda joined him at Porbandar after about a week and after spending a few days at Porbandar he went to Jamnagar via Jetpur, Gondal, Rajkot and thus spent about a year in Kathiawad.

With Shri Sankar Pandurang
Pandit at Porbandar

Swamiji visited Porbandar twice. According to Swami Shivananda, it was the large beautiful library of Shri Sankar Pandurang Pandit which had attracted Swamiji's special notice when he had come to Porbandar at the time of his earlier visit and that Panditji had requested him to stay as long as he liked at his place and utilize the library. Swamiji had consented to do so and hence he came again to Porbandar and this time stayed for about four months. His earlier visit was a short one as confirmed from the autobiography of Swami Abhedananda. During his travels Swami Abhedananda had come to Porbandar and learnt from Shankar Pandurang Pandit that a few days back an English-knowing Bengali Sannyasi named Swami Sachhidananda had come there on a flying visit. Later he found out that he was none other then Swami Vivekananda.

Pandit Shankar Pandurang (1840-1894) of Konkan was not only a Sanskrit scholar of eminence, but he was a man of affairs being at the time in high favour with the Government. After his return from England in 1874, he was appointed as Oriental Translator in Bombay Government as he was proficient in nine languages. In 1886 he was appointed as Registrar in Bombay High Court and shortly afterwards as administrator of Porbandar. Apart from editing 'Atharvaveda' and 'Raghuvansha' of Kalidas he started a journal 'Vedarthyatra' for propagation of Rigveda. His numerous Sanskrit work were appreciated by great scholars all over the world. Prof. Max Mueller had said, "The editions of Sanskrit text published at Bombay by Prof. Bhandarkar and Mr. S. P. Pandit and others need not fear comparison with the best works of European scholars."

Apart from this, he was a great philanthropist. He arranged for irrigation facilities for farmers, started telegraph offices all over the State of Porbandar, started schools for girls as he was a staunch supporter of female education, opened hospitals in the villages and carried out various works for the benefit of the public.

During his long stay at Porbandar Swamiji became very intimate with Pandit Shankar Pandurang and his family. He used to ride with Panditji on horse back to have a look at the distant villages. Being an artist of the cuisine he taught the wife of Panditji, Ushadevi, various delicious preparations. Two sons of Panditji - Madhav and Vaman played with him, learnt swimming from him and became great friends of Swamiji. Three daughters Tara, Kshama and Bhadra who were at first shy, received greater affection and blessings of Swamiji.

When Swamiji was at Porbandar, Pandit Shankar Pandurang was editing Sayanacharya's commentary on the 'Atharva Veda'. Struck with Swamiji's scholarship, he often asked his help to explain some of the more abstruse passages which Swamiji did with his usual lucidity. Both kept at the work constantly, Swamiji becoming more and more engrossed in it as his perception of the greatness of Vedic thought grew still keener. Swamiji also finished reading of Panini's 'Mahabhasya' at Porbandar. Swamiji told Swami Akhandananda that in the whole of India he had not seen Pandurang's equal in Vedic learning. 37 Swamiji also learnt French at the instance of Panditiji who said, "It will be of great use to you Swamiji". He wrote a letter in French to his brother - disciples at Alambazar and gave them a great surprise.

Pandit Shankar Pandurang told Swamiji, "I am afraid you cannot do much in this country. Few will appreciate you here. You ought to go to the West. Surely you can throw a great light on Western culture by preaching the Sanatana Dharma". Here, probably Swamiji heard for the first about the religious convention that was to be held sometime in the following year at Chicago.